There are places that seem to have more soul and charm than others, Tisvildeleje is one of them. To me, it hasn’t really been summer until I have been to this little beach town on the North Coast of Sealand. Good news is that it is quite easy to get to this charming town with beautiful beaches and a large forest. If you are visiting Copenhagen and feel like venturing out to experience the country side, and maybe even go for a swim, I highly recommend a day- or weekend trip to Tisvildeleje. You can take the S-train from Copenhagen to Hilleroed and from Hilleroed Station the “Gribskovbane” train no. 960R to Tisvildeleje Station will take you straight to the heart of Tisvildeleje which is the end station. This train ride passes by forest, fields and gently rolling hills so it gives you a great opportunity to see what the Danish landscape is like.
Tisvildeleje is a former fishing village which since the 1900’s have risen in popularity as a favorite vacation destination for Danes. There is just “something” about Tisvildeleje with its narrow mainstreet that leads you by original boutiques, cafes and restaurants, winds past charming old houses and finally mounds out in the wide public beach and Tisvildehegn/Troldeskoven (“The Troll Forest”). But before you get to the forest or beach, don’t forget to stop at the bakery on Main Street (“Hovedgaden”) and get yourself a nice and sticky Danish cinnamon bun (their “kanelsnurrer” are also amazing) to enjoy with a thermo coffee in the forest or on the beach!
Troldeskoven is a fun place for an adventure walk in its fairytale-like low-growing vegetation with curly trees shaped by strong ocean winds. On a windy day it is good hygge to have a picnic in one of the many clearings in the forest, sitting on a fallen tree trunk, protected by the surrounding low but sturdy trees. On a sunny day you may want to move on to the beautiful dunes by the water and enjoy your picnic on a blanket. If you prefer a wilder setting you could walk back in the direction of the town but along the beach. As you move away from the wide public beach you will find some unique beaches walled against a steep slope overgrown with wild roses, sea buck thorn and other wild flowers. At the bottom of the slope are large rocks which make great picnic chairs and tables while you can enjoy the free view of the foamy waves.
My absolute favorite area of Tisvildeleje is the street that leads from Main Street towards the beach hotel and the summerhouse area. This street and its little side alleys are full of charming old summerhouses in the classic North Sealand summerhouse style with black painted sideboards and white trims. Right after the beach hotel you will see a sign to “Helenekilde” which is a holy spring on top of a steep slope towards the ocean.
From here you will get a splendid view over the beach in all its dramatic beauty. A great place to end a day trip and say goodbye for the day to the sun slowly setting over the ocean, coloring the sky in warm gold and pink hues. A beauty and peacefulness that will remain with you as you return to the city.